Analysing the biggest trending topics in fashion including London fashion week being cancelled in June, the decline of luxury sneakers and the identity crisis of the high street.
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The British Fashion Council has announced the cancellation of the June edition of London Fashion Week Men’s – yet another reshuffle for a major European fashion week whose menswear calendar has been shrinking to the point of near-disappearance. In place of the usual programming, the BFC will focus its resources on a commercial event in Paris: a new edition of London Show Rooms, scheduled from June 26 to July 1, offering a streamlined but above all runway-free platform for British fashion. While the industry has fewer legacy names, it still boasts a strong roster of incredible independent designers who, in recent times and understandably so, have chosen to present their collections during the more robust and visible September womenswear schedule. The reintroduction of the Paris showroom in September 2024, after a hiatus that began in January 2023, marks a renewed commitment to emerging and independent UK brands. Already in February, during the FW25 season, the British Fashion Council experimented with new promotional formats by opening a pop-up store on Regent Street dedicated to independent brands such as Ahluwalia, Nicholas Daley and Saul Nash.
London Fashion Week began to struggle during the lockdown era. In 2022, it returned in-person with a reduced programme after several digital editions, but interest in the June schedule, already diminished, continued to decline. The 2023 edition included only four designers on the calendar and very few presentations, which proved commercially unsustainable for everyone. Last year, the BFC attempted a new format, focusing on an exhibition at the Institute of Contemporary Art and events dedicated to the cultures that have shaped London’s menswear scene. Needless to say, the British Fashion Council’s decisions have often been responsible and “correct,” yet seem to deliberately ignore public interest and the media-driven nature of fashion in 2025. Unsurprisingly, the BFC has recently made headlines only when discussing banning fur and exotic skins or a format shift that ended up feeling inevitably dull, along with an increasingly digitalised approach that, while perhaps inevitable, has little – if any – allure. One of the main issues, strictly from a commercial point of view, is that the ordering timelines for menswear do not align with those of womenswear, making it more complex to simply merge the editions into the September London Fashion Week Women’s, which, like its Milan counterpart, is now more co-ed than female-focused.
While relatively larger brands have no issue blending their menswear and womenswear collections, the challenges increase for menswear designers who are relocated to the September schedule with order and production timelines that are fairly out of sync with the usual ones. The core issue, however, lies in the fact that a fashion week in 2025 is as much an entertainment event as it is a commercial one. To put it perhaps harshly, showrooms are only interesting to buyers, and since the Covid era, no one watches digital shows, despite many media outlets’ insistence that they are no different from live ones or even presentations. London Fashion Week, in any case, is reaching the same tipping point as Milan Fashion Week Men’s: that too has a much slimmer calendar than its womenswear counterpart, leading several designers to skip it in favour of the latter, while “filler” events are multiplying and the co-ed format is becoming dominant. In this sense, London Fashion Week Men’s could be the proverbial canary in the coal mine: could the luxury crisis, worsened by the new U.S. trade policies, lead to a broader restructuring of fashion weeks in the years to come, effectively reducing them?
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